AirPrint Server with Ubuntu - The easy way

With an AirPrint enabled printer, you can easily print over wifi from your Iphone, Ipad, and Ipod Touch.

If you don't have a printer, or your printer is on its last leg, the easy way is to buy a $69 HP Wifi Printer, Scanner, and Fax.


However, many of us like our printers and don't want to buy another. So here is the real easy way to make your old printer AirPrint compatible.

You need to have:

• Ubuntu installed (10.10 was tested)
• The printer working in ubuntu. Usually not difficult, but it is beyond the scope of this blog post.

Steps:

Copy and paste this line into the terminal. You can find the terminal by clicking applications, accessories, terminal.

sudo add-apt-repository ppa:hughescih/ppa && sudo apt-get update && sudo apt-get install airprint-daemon

This will ask for your password to continue. After entering the password, you will see hundreds of lines fly by.
Finally open your printing manager by clicking System, Administration, Printing
Open the printer server settings by clicking Server, Settings
Check the box for 'Publish shared printers connected to this system'
Check the box for 'Allow printing from the Internet'
Click Ok.

Thats it. You can now print from your iphone, etc.

This is based on the blog post here: http://gtk-apps.org/content/show.php/Apple+AirPrint+Support+for+Ubuntu?content=136756

Fuji FinePix x100 - The perfect walk-around camera?

The new (not yet in the US) Fuji x100 camera has enthusiast and professional photographers chomping at the bit. I preordered mine from B&H Photo and I'm dying in anticipation of its arrival. This camera will provide high end SLR quality and control, in a light weight all in one package. There are a few similar options out there, but not one with all these features, such as the hybrid viewfinder, dials for all the manual controls, APS-C (large) sensor, and a classic look which is just gorgeous!

This camera will cost as much as an SLR with similar lens, or even a micro 4/3 with similar lens and viewfinder, so it's no break in price. But if you know what you are doing with a camera, the Fuji x100 is the camera to have when you don't want to look like a pro, or carry the weight of a full SLR kit.

My next best choice is the Olympus E-PL1 or 2 with a Panasonic 20mm 1.7 lens.

I'll post more about it once I get it. My wife took over the E-PL1 I had, but I'm not letting her take this one!

Finally, Block sites in Google search!

Goodbye Experts Exchange!

I hate experts exchange. When looking for an answer to a technical question, I think I finally found a result in google. I click and wham, I didn't bother to see the link was for experts exchange. An annoying search result which wants you to pay to see answers. I have 2 problems with it. 1. I'm finding answers for my job, I'm not going to pay experts exchange for my employer's benefit. 2. I get paid no matter how long it takes me to find an answer.

Now, with google you can click on a search result you don't like, then click the back button and A new link will appear asking if you want to block the site from ALL future results!


BYE BYE Experts Exchange!

2D Light Depth Calculator

Last time I talked about light depth and calculating it in one dimension, now I will add another dimension. The 2d depth calculator I have created lets you handle more complex scenarios and is more visual. The drawing is to scale, but the scale is whatever you want it to be. If you want to use centimeters, then each square represents a centimeter. If you want feet, then each square is a foot (a square foot more accurately). Each solid cintrifical line represents a full stop of light difference from the previous solid line. Dashed lines, available at greater distances represent 1/3 stops. The amount of light loss you are willing to accept from the front of the subject to the back of the subject is up to you.

To use the tool:
Determine an appropriate scale for your subject. ie. Shooting a car or group of people you may want to use feet. Shooting a lego design, you may want to use a lego standard, 1 stud. etc.
Measure your subject in the scale you have chosen. (A lego figure is about 1 stud deep, and 2.5 studs wide)
Using another piece of paper with the same grid on it, cut out your subject based on your measurements.
Place the cutout on top of the lighting calculator and move your subject around to find the perfect distance for your effect.

So if you move your subject real close to the light source, you will notice the front of the subject will be 1 stop brighter than the back. Move your subject back and now your subject bay only have 1/3 stop difference from front to back. But this is a 2D calculator, so you also see where the edges and corners start to drop in light.

Attached is a low res version. It will still work fine. So go ahead and print it full page.